Porto—A Beauty on Douro

Here is one look-back post, which I didn't manage to publish sooner. It's about the city where I spent the last 6 months: Porto.

So what makes this city so attractive? So far, I encountered two types of cities: Business cities (good job opportunities, rush life-style) and student cities (great atmosphere, easy to find an accomodation) and Porto is definitely a student city.

Porto from Torre dos Clérigos

Umbrellas in Trashbins

The presence of students is visible at the beginning of semesters, when they have their praxe. And also, they give the nightlife of Porto its atmosphere. Usually, it starts around a famous bar Piolho, or in one of the surrounding streets and then the focus of attention moves to clubs, clumped together around the neighbourhood known as Galerias.

They have a funny system of entry fees here. You don't pay at the entry, instead you receive a consumption ticket and when you buy a drink, you get a stamp. Without stamps, the neck-less guys at the entrance don't let you out.

In winter, there is a lot of windy rain, so an umbrella is a must have. But the wind is sometimes so strong that it breaks the umbrellas. So one of the symbols of Porto for me is many broken umbrellas in public trashbins, especially after a weekend.

Porto = Gotham City?

The old UNESCO protected historical part near to the river is called Baixa and its tall, narrow houses are an amazing sight. But what gets me every time is the famous bridge of Ponte Dom Luís I. Walking below its construction, I always get the feeling I am in one of the Tim Burton's fantasy movies. The dark tone of the Baixa only supports this feeling.

The style of the bridge is very different from the medieval look of Baixa, but they complement each other extraordinarily. The inhabitants of Porto weren't pussies and were not afraid to mix architectural styles (unlike recently, people from Prague with the library of J. Kaplický) and it paid off.

Ribeira—the old port

Ponte Domn Luís I. in the background

Kids often jump from the bridge for tourists' money

Cheap Center, Expensive Outskirts

Flats in the historical core are much cheaper than the ones further away. The restorations might be costly, because of the laws for monument protection. But it is not just that. There is a law limiting the rents in the centre. As a result, there centre is inhabited with people with low-end income. Right next to the cathedral, you see clothes hanging of the balconies. It gives a completely different feeling than the traditional commercialized centres (Prague, Vienna etc.), where there are only offices and shops.

Baixa

Many houses would need restoration

Micro-tourist-guide

Let's say you have only half a day for Porto. What should you see? Start from Jardim da Cordoaria, pass through Avenida dos Aliados (the most important square), walk through the old town towards Ribeira (the part adjacent to the river) and then take a historical tram that goes to Foz—a pictoresque quarter at the mouth of the river. You can have a walk under the palms, check out the lighthouses, listen to the waves and sit down in some of the many small cafes there.

If you have more time, there is a museum of modern art and gardens Serralvez, bookshop just like the one from Harry Potter, Garden of Palácio de Cristal, with its spectacular view and a big city park and a possibility to try out surfing. Come visit, it's definitely worth it ;)

Townhall

Tram to Foz

Foz

Spanish Mission

So there it is, I changed Porto with its rainy winter for sunny and dry Madrid. There was a lot going on in between. I will write about those events and about the end of my Portuguese mission in the following days.

But now: The next 7 months I will spend in Spain. On the 17th of October I will sit for a C2 exam at the Cervantes Institute. Spanish is the first language of which I never had any classes, but it is so similar to Portuguese that I am pretty confident. I can already communicate and understand short responses. So I am curious to watch my "portiñol" turn into true castellano.

It is March and in Madrid it feels like August in Slovakia already. I am curious about July here. Hm, maybe Ibiza for the summer? :P ¡Hasta la vista, baby!

Portugal—10 Things That You Absolutely Positively Cannot Live Without Knowing

1. In the Winter, It Is Warmer Outside than Inside

Yep, I shit you not. The winters are "quite" mild, russian gas far away, electricity expensive, so they don't really use heating. Inside you have to be dressed more than outside. Outside, you have the sun and you are moving.

2. Stone Fences, Stone Fences Everywhere

Stone is probably cheap here. Portugal has mountains, so it makes sense. Everything is made of stone. I think I saw only one building here made of bricks. The dirtiest pubs have sinks made of marble. Public benches are from polished granite. Even the rural fences of the agricultural land are made of... stone.

Field-delimiting fences

3. Traffic Lights for Pedestrians Are Just a Decoration

Green means "Go", red means "Go, but hurry". I can understand why pedestrians ignore them, they seem to be really badly set and one must wait long minutes for the green light to come. Interesting enough, the cars are quite patient with them, even if they are crossing at the red light and rarely honk.

4. Student Initiation Rituals

In Portuguese, they are called praxe and they are spectacular. Google it. College freshmen have to dress up, swear, bow, fulfill tasks, be humiliated. And all of it in the streets. The organizing students take it so seriously that they usually don't let tourists make pictures of these events.

Praxe - Student initiation rituals

5. Half-portions Are More than What You Can Eat

I came to Porto, saw menus and thought: "Damn, these people are expensive, wasn't it supposed be one of the poorer EU countries?" Only later I discovered that I should look at Half-portion-prices. Half portion means a plate for one person, full portion is for two. Often, even the half portion is too much for one person to eat.

6. Codfish

The 11. commandment of the Portuguese is: "Thou shall eat Cod". Eventhough it is an imported fish, Portuguese have probably the biggest number of recipes with Codfish. Pataniscas, bacalhau com natas and many more.

Salt-conserved cod

Bacalhau com natas

Pataniscas

7. The Smell of Eucalyptus Trees in the Morning

Eucalyptus, a non-original and invasive kind was introduced because of its fast growth and value for the wood-processing industry. Now Eucalyptus makes up a major part of Portuguese forests and gives them a specific menthol-fresh smell.

Eucalyptus, a common tree kind in Portugal

8. Friday, 9:00 PM—Time to Go Out? Relax...

11:00 PM is the time to go to the bar. 1:00 AM is the soonest when the clubs start getting full.

9. Coffe

One my friend said: "You know you are in Portugal when people are drinking coffee at 11:30 PM". But basically after every meal. The quantity is smaller than one mouthfull, but it's so strong that I need 5 minutes at least to drink it all.

Portuguese are big lovers of strong coffe

10. Partying Outside

So the following happened to me: My friends and me were trying to get through a huge number of people standing on the street with beers in their hands, until we finally came to the pub where they sell it. We bought beer and... went to sit. To the only table they had. And this only table was empty. People here just rather hang out outside, than sit inside the pubs.

Another thing worth mentioning is that even with such a huge number of drinking people, squeezed on a small place in front of a pub, I have never seen any fight. And they are so quiet. Might be because drinking of spirits doesn't have a tradition here, or because I have seen only places where university students go. But still, this experience tells me the Portuguese are really non-violent.

Portuguese nightlife

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Standard disclaimer: The observations here might be really central-europe-centric, so if you get yourself thinking "Wait, this is not unusual, here it's like that too", it might be that it's just unusual for me.